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  • Writer's pictureBali Bohemia

Our Special Village, Nyuh Kuning

There are a few reasons why we chose Nyuh Kuning, and one of our neighbors below gives us some more...

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“Smiling is the beginning of happiness,” says Agus Premananda, a longtime resident and proud member of the local community group Mekenyem (“smile” in Balinese). He and his group are clearing the streets of litter, planting trees and ambitiously planning to plant 5,000 frangipanis. This, they claim, is sure to bring a smile to even the grumpiest of souls.

Nyuh Kuning (“yellow coconut” in Balinese) is a banjar (small village) of roughly 800 residents located south of the Sacred Monkey Forest in Ubud. Once a village of wood carvers known for their animal figurines, Nyuh Kuning–much like Ubud and much of Bali–has been impacted by the tourist industry. Increasing numbers of guest houses and hotels dot the village, as well as a small selection of shops and restaurants. You won’t be solicited here for a taxi or a massage (though both are available), a welcome break from Ubud.

Nyuh Kuning’s popularity skyrocketed in 2009, when Julia Roberts came through town to film Eat, Pray, Love. It’s also home to Yayasan Bumi Sehat Klinic, a prenatal care and birthing clinic founded by Robin Lim, winner of CNN’s 2011 Hero Of The Year Award. Relatively tidy and pedestrian-friendly Nyuh Kuning has become a favourite choice for expat families with children.

“I want my kids to explore our neighbourhood on foot,” said one expat mother walking through the football field carrying a handful of organic produce from a neighbour’s garden. The football field regularly hosts informal baseball, frisbee and football matches, drawing a culturally-mixed group of players.

Nyuh Kuning stands out as an integrated, pedestrian- friendly village. It’s clean, bright, orderly, and colourful without the signature aroma of burning garbage.

“Who smiles in an unclean village?” asks Agus with a raised eyebrow. The village collects, and takes responsibility for all of their garbage. On Saturday mornings you’ll see local school kids collecting their community waste along the main road, Jl. Nyuh Bulan. The trash is then sorted, composted or recycled. This kampung runs their own local warung, a transportation co-operative and a parking lot to raise funds for community projects.

Though the village consists of only two streets that converge at the football field and continue to the Monkey Forest, it is full of artisans, cultural and healing centers and ashrams. The soccer field is busy with a variety of activities: soccer, kite flying, community ceremonial preparations and even a Saturday morning baseball game headed-up by neighbourhood North American parents. There’s Yellow Coco Creative Nest, a center for art and creativity, the Amrtasiddhi Ayurvedic and Yoga Health Center, Movement Matters, and notably for food, Coffee and Copper next to Monkey Forest. The community even has a facebook page to stay connected to local activities (FB: Nyuh Kuning Neighbors).

Another lovely sight is the local elderly residents with yoga mats tucked under their arms heading either to exercise class or Laughter Yoga classes at the Ambarshram.

You can reach the village by riding your scooter or walking along the stone path left of the entrance to the Monkey Forest in Ubud. If you come by car you will be charged a 2000 rupiah entry fee, a village initiative to keep traffic down. With no shortage of innovative environmental programs and community activities, there is much to smile about here.

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